Day 5 – From Givet to Aubrives: DIY Lunch, Slippery Climbs, and a Hotel Where Time Stood Still

After a few nights, I finally had a proper sleep (okay, apart from the mattresses that would’ve been better off at a flea market than in a hotel). I started the day fresh, ready for the hike from Givet to Aubrives. But first: supplies.

At the supermarket, I went all in on the DIY-lunch experience: bread rolls with Philadelphia, cheese and ham. A luxurious picnic for a bench along the way. I also withdrew some cash (because sometimes an ATM just says: “nope, not today”), stocked up on multivitamin juice, water, and muesli bars, and I was good to go.

I chose the safer route – 6.5 km longer, but hey, better that than having trucks breathing down my neck on a main road.

Not even 2 km in, and sure enough: it poured down. Poncho on (yes, including the backpack underneath – I basically looked like a lumpy mountain of plastic) and trudged through. Luckily the sun broke through later and turned it into a gorgeous day.

Then came the first climb. Thanks to the rain, the fallen leaves had turned into a deluxe slip’n’slide, but the view over Chooz at the top was phenomenal. Breathtaking! Until I realized: what goes up… must come down. And the descent turned out to be even steeper. With my heavy backpack it felt more like an improvised abseiling course. There used to be chains to hold onto, but they were half broken. Still, I made it down without incident – proud moment!

Afterwards, a break in the shade by the river: water, a snack bar, and then back on the move. Through a roundabout onto a secondary road, where the ups and downs were thankfully kinder. Another quick stop at a picnic table, and then the final kilometer through the woods.

And then I thought: yes, I made it, civilization!

Well… “civilization.” It turned out to be more like a deserted village. No shops, just one small grocery store – closed, of course (I was too early). So I waited at the hotel instead.

Peeking through the window, it looked as if time had stopped there since the 1970s: an old bar, a dusty counter… I half expected to walk into a black-and-white film.

Luckily the hotel staff arrived: a super-friendly man welcomed me warmly. The room was spacious, the shower excellent, the bed heavenly. Only downside: my next destination was still 18 km away, with plenty of climbs and descents. So I decided: tomorrow I’ll cheat a bit and take the train to Monthermé.

That evening I had a lovely dinner, then straight to bed. Ready for new adventures tomorrow.

Day 6 – The Train, Camping Chaos, and a Culinary Disaster

After breakfast I stuffed everything back into my bag and stopped by the supermarket for water and snacks. My train to Monthermé didn’t leave until noon – cheap ticket, so I had time for a slow start.

At the station it felt like I was auditioning for “Who Trips Most Often?” but after nearly falling three times, the train did finally arrive. And what a ride! Through the mountains, along the river, past picturesque villages – it was almost a shame to get off.

From Monthermé it was just a short walk to the campsite. “Short” being relative, since – as always – there were climbs and descents. With a few breaks and plenty of sweat, I made it. At reception, we somehow held a three-language conversation (French, English, Dutch) just to make clear I wanted a spot for one night. Filled out the form, got a pitch with electricity (hallelujah for charging!), set up the tent, and settled in.

Best bonus: a supermarket within a stone’s throw. So I thought: gourmet dinner tonight! I bought a nice cut of meat and mushrooms… which turned into a greasy kitchen disaster. Delicious, but way too heavy. Result: a marathon to the toilet that night. Ah well, that’s the price of a “fancy” dinner.

At least dessert made up for it: chocolate mousse that tastes so different – and better – in France. I added a tub of Skyr for some protein, showered (a waste, considering the later toilet sprints), and did some washing up.

In the evening I chatted with a cheerful retiree and went to bed early. Rain poured down outside, but luckily the campsite had a shelter where I could cook. Everything stayed dry!

What I’m noticing most: I’m starting to understand those elevation meters better and how to handle them. And – very important – still no blisters. Okay, one tiny one that occasionally nags, but hardly worth mentioning. Golden tip: wear two pairs of toe socks and tie your laces tight, especially when descending.

Not many kilometers today, but that was actually perfect. Tomorrow, onwards again – with fresh energy and hopefully fewer toilet runs.

Day 7 – Getting Lost, Entertainment, and Refreshment

After a decent night’s sleep – apart from one midnight toilet trip – I started the day calmly. Made coffee, prepared wraps with peanut butter, banana, and a sprinkle of cinnamon (a top combo for the trail!), and packed up. Left the tent standing while I walked into town for a fresh croissant. Grabbed water and drinks too, then back to the campsite to take down the tent, throw on the backpack, and off I went.

The route started with a steep climb through the forest. “Path” is a generous term – after a while I was basically just walking on a carpet of leaves and dirt with no visible trail. But as long as it went uphill, I figured I was probably heading the right way. With plenty of breaks (translation: leaning against a tree, gasping, pretending to admire the birds), I made progress. Until I lost the trail completely.

So there I was, hacking through undergrowth with a backpack that felt heavier than me. At times it felt like I was on a survival TV show. Descending was an adventure in itself – balance is not my greatest talent with that much weight. But in the end, the “wild forest” stretch was only about 5 km. After that, just 2.5 km on asphalt and normal paths, and suddenly I emerged into a gorgeous valley.

A small village, surrounded by hills, led me toward the campsite. No supermarket nearby, but luckily I still had an emergency meal packed. As I set up my tent, an unexpected comedy show unfolded: a Dutch couple struggling with their caravan. Lying in my tent, I listened to their half-grumbling, half-cursing efforts – better entertainment than any TV show after a long day of hiking.

Dinner was the emergency-ration version, boosted with some coconut snacks from the bakery. Coffee, a view over the Semois river, and I was content. I even managed to get some extra drinks at the campsite – luxury! A warm shower followed, and then the ultimate camping moment: crawling into my sleeping bag just as the rain started hammering down outside. All I could think was: thank goodness I’m dry and cozy in here.

A day of getting a bit lost, unexpected comedy from the neighbors, and plenty of nature. Exactly what I came for.

Day 8 – From Coconut Snacks to Carpaccio with Fries

The day began simply: coconut snacks, a couple of bars, and some leftover wraps. Not a lavish breakfast, but enough fuel to get me going. Today was special: a hotel night in Les Hautes Rivières. My last night in France!

The first climb took me past a small café where I discovered a very unusual toastie: stuffed with potato and Emmental. Sounds odd, but it worked surprisingly well. With a coffee and an entire carafe of water downed, I was set.

The trail through the forest was a dream. Finally, proper paths under my feet – no leaf jungles or scrambling. Walking felt effortless, and before I knew it, I was descending into Les Hautes Rivières. Bad timing though: the supermarket had just closed for a two-hour siesta. Straight to the hotel then, where they kindly let me check in early.

First, I sprawled out on the bed, then did some laundry in the bathroom (officially forbidden, but hey, hikers improvise). Later I treated myself to a croissant and a slice of suikerbrood – a local specialty – from the bakery. As I savored it, the skies opened and heavy rain poured down. Perfect excuse to retreat to my hotel room until dinner.

In the evening I headed to the restaurant. The menu? Entirely in French. With my best school French, mixed with a dash of English, I managed to order carpaccio – which, to my surprise, came as a main course with fries. Tasty, but not nearly enough. So I simply ordered a steak as well. Fuel is essential when you hike all day.

The funny part? The owner eventually revealed he spoke Dutch. After my whole language circus, we both cracked up laughing. A coffee to finish, then back to the hotel bed. Wrote a little (still catching up on my reports…) and then sleep.

A day of surprising meals, excellent trails, and lots of rain – but above all, a day to recharge. Tomorrow: new adventures.

Day 9 – Mountains, Beavers, and an Absurd Amount of Entrecôte

I got up early and headed to Bohan, just a short walk away, for fruit and a few supplies. But, as always, I decided to tack on more miles. So after the 7 km to Bohan, I spontaneously added another 11.

The start was brutal: a steep mountain where halfway up I questioned all my life choices. But the reward at the top was stunning: gorgeous trails, steep descents, and even a lookout tower I climbed for a break and breathtaking views.

Later I aimed for a village I thought had a supermarket. Wrong. Nothing there. So I carried on to the campsite. I asked about a taxi, but the owner – friendly yet a bit gruff – offered me his bike instead. “But bring it back by six!”

So off I went, wobbling along on a bike with underinflated tires. Naturally I took the wrong route: big climb first, then flying downhill. But honestly, it was kind of fun. In Alle, I found the supermarket quickly, though I loaded myself down with a bag way too heavy. It swung into the wheel the entire ride back, but miraculously both the bike and I survived.

After 18 km of hiking, nearly 1,000 meters of elevation, and a bonus cycling trip, I was wiped. But my reward was waiting: a 600-gram entrecôte. It didn’t even fit in my pan, so I had to cut it in half. Absolute feast. To top it off, I had fresh chocolate desserts that tasted like raw brownie batter.

I treated myself to a double-length shower (two coins – well deserved!) and later chatted with a friendly guy from Limburg, who gave me a slice of Limburg pie as a gift. Heaven!

The campsite was right on the Semois river and plagued by beavers – gnawed trees everywhere, and at night I heard them splashing and chewing. Actually pretty cozy. With a cold kriek in hand, I crawled into bed early. Exhausted but happy. Tomorrow, another adventure awaits.

Day 10 – Wasps, Tonisteiner, and… Just Fries

I woke early, but it was still freezing in the tent, so I rolled over for another nap. Breakfast: coffee and banana wraps with peanut butter and cinnamon – my new favorite start. While packing, a wasp stung me. Not the nicest wake-up, but manageable.

Before setting off, I indulged in one last two-coin shower (pure luxury!) and a chat with my Limburg friend from yesterday. Then it was time to move on.

First stop: the supermarket in Alle. Ran into him again there – it was starting to feel like fate. Unfortunately, the shop was closed for the usual two-hour Belgian lunch break. So we waited. Eventually I stocked up properly: food for the morning, water, and of course my new Belgian obsession: Tonisteiner. Honestly, it’s my number one drink here.

With my pack now heavier than ever, I set off toward Poupehan. Immediately, another tough climb. More than once I asked myself: why am I doing this? The charming village of Lavio was a welcome distraction, but soon I was back in the woods. Took a break to air out my feet – my little blister was starting to make itself known. After a rest, I powered on to the top.

The descent led me to the campsite. Unfortunately, the owner was far from welcoming – clearly annoyed that I didn’t speak French. Oh well, not everyone can be sunshine. Set up the tent, recharged some devices, had a drink, and was in bed by 8.

Day 11 – The Final Stretch: Wet Tents, Wrong Turns, and Bouillon

I woke fairly early, but everything was soaked from the night’s rain. So I took it easy: made coffee, prepared tuna sandwiches with mayo, salt, and pepper (luxury trail lunch!), and let my tent dry out. After one last shower, it was time for the final hike to Bouillon.

It felt special: soon I would have walked all the way from the Netherlands to Bouillon. Okay, with the occasional bus or train, and a little detour through France – but still, it felt amazing.

The day started tough: two kilometers of straight climbing. On my Garmin everything lit up bright yellow – steep and intense. Once I reached the top, the trail eased into roadside walking before dipping into the forest. And that’s where I messed up: I followed my Garmin instead of the signs for “Bouillon.” In hindsight, not the smartest choice… but I hate backtracking.

So I ended up bushwhacking through the woods with no trail, straight downhill, weaving between trees. At one point, I even lost my towel. It was a bit nerve-wracking: lost, 25 degrees, no path in sight. But I stayed calm, studied my route, and aimed for the nearest road. Finally, I reconnected with a trail and breathed a sigh of relief. Only 3 km to go.

Along the way I spotted a wild-camper’s tent, then passed other hikers. The final descent brought me along the river, and then I saw it: Bouillon Castle rising in the distance. Iconic. I knew this was the end.

Walking into Bouillon felt both fun and familiar – though a lot had changed since my scouting days here. At the hotel, I lugged my bag up to the second floor, flopped on the bed, and napped. Happy, proud, and a little strange – this was it.

In the afternoon I discovered the supermarket was closed, but found a corner shop for drinks. A butcher’s sandwich later, plus a waffle with strawberries and whipped cream on a terrace, and I was in heaven. I even bought a Belgian patch in a souvenir shop – a perfect keepsake.

The evening was spent writing up the last blog notes, then off to bed. Happy, satisfied, and a little wistful. My legs had taken a beating in the mountains, but it was worth every step.

Tomorrow: a long sleep-in, some recovery, and on Tuesday the 5.5-hour trip back home. Joee joee, until then!